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 TIPS:
Silverbrook Nursery sells trees and shrubs that are container-grown or balled and burlapped. Both forms can be successfully planted with a little extra effort in the planting process. The most important factor to remember after the plant is installed is that the root system needs to become established as soon as possible for the plant to grow and thrive. click on tips below to ensure a healthy start for your plants.
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Planting and Watering Instructions for Trees and Shrubs
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- PLANTING
- Select trees and shrubs that are appropriate for the planting site. Be aware of the soil conditions and the available amount of space, light, and water. Poorly sited plants are doomed from the start, no matter how carefully they are planted.
After choosing your plant and its location, dig a hole two to three times wider than the root ball. The sides of the hole can slope up gradually making it bowl-shaped. The depth of the hole should be slightly less than the depth of the root ball. A planting hole that is shallow and wide allows for rapid root growth after planting.
If the plant is container-grown, remove the plant from its container. Roots that are compacted and tight should be loosened. Use a knife or pair of pruners to score around the root ball every 3-5 inches. Tease the roots with your fingers. This allows them to grow out into the surrounding soil and more readily absorb moisture.
If the plant is balled and burlapped, it is not necessary to remove the burlap, unless the ‘burlap’ is actually made of plastic or nylon. Many times removing the burlap and wire basket damages the root ball. Instead, remove or fold the burlap and basket away from the upper half of the root ball to keep surface roots from girdling. Over time the burlap will rot away. Remove any rope or string as they can also cause extensive damage.
Carefully place the plant into the hole and face it in the desired direction. Be certain the trunk is straight! Elevate the root ball out of the planting hole 1-2 inches for smaller shrubs and 2-4 inches for larger shrubs and trees. Planting too deeply is one of the most common causes of plant injury and death, especially if the soil becomes waterlogged and does not drain well. Planting a little high also allows for any future settling.
Backfill the planting hole with half the existing soil, tamping gently and watering as you go to settle out air pockets. Incorporate at least 2-4 inches of organic material, such as compost or a good quality soil conditioner, into the remaining soil. Do not add small amounts of sand as this increases compaction and decreases drainage. Finish backfilling the hole, keeping the soil level even with the top of the root ball. Do not bring the soil up over the top. If a larger planting area is being prepared, incorporate at least 2-4 inches of organic material into the top 8 inches of the entire bed. This material can be lightly tilled or turned in with a shovel. Recent research has shown that soil amended in this way allows for better root growth and water movement. Healthy roots do not stay confined to their planting holes.
Be sure to water your new plantings as soon as possible after installation following our Watering Guidelines for Plants brochure.
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- STAKING
- Most newly planted trees do not require staking. Staking may be necessary when stability is a problem on a steep slope or in a very windy site. If used, keep the stake in place for only one year or until new roots provide adequate support. Guy wires and staking materials should not hold the tree too rigidly. Some flexibility for movement is desirable. Check staking occasionally to be sure it is not damaging the tree.
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- FERTILIZATION
- Adding fertilizer to trees and shrubs at the time of planting is generally not recommended. Research has shown that fertilization is ineffective until the plant has had time to partially re-establish its root system. Fertilizers can also damage newly developing roots. Excessive fertilizers are also one of the major contaminants of our water supply. Many plants require very little fertilizer to be healthy, especially native and adapted species. Most often, a layer of organic compost added to the soil at the beginning of the growing season is all that is necessary to provide plants with the nutrients they require. This type of fertilizer is also environmentally sensitive and does not contribute to pollution. If you believe a fertilizer is needed, we recommend your soil be tested by Extension Services (www.ext.vt.edu or 703-324-8556) to determine actual requirements.
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- PRUNING
- Prune trees and shrubs very minimally at the time of planting. Only dead or broken branches and those that are crossing in trees should be removed. If too many branches with foliage are pruned away, the plant can not produce the energy it needs to survive the shock of planting and to start regrowth of roots. Prune for correction only after the plant is more established. When pruning branches from a tree, do not leave stubs. Follow the advice”If you can hang your hat on the stub, it is too long.” For further advice regarding pruning your trees and shrubs, please contact us. We will be happy to give you the help you need.
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- MULCHING
- The purpose of a layer of organic mulch is to:
• moderate soil temperatures throughout the year
• control weeds
• improve soil’s physical structure and fertility
• prevent erosion
• protect tree roots from lawn mower damage
Spread no more than 2-3 inches of top quality mulch on top of the root ball and surrounding soil. Keep the mulch away from the trunk and taper it down to the soil level.
There are several types of mulch available and several factors to consider when choosing the type appropriate for your plants. Fine textured mulch tends to pack down, and dry out before water can reach roots of the plant. Coarse textured material may be too porous and not retain adequate moisture. Medium textured mulch is appropriate for most planting beds.
Hardwood Bark – Can be purchased as chips or shredded. Fresh chips that are not composted may deplete the nitrogen available in the soil while they decompose. Be prepared to add nitrogen to your planting beds if this occurs.
Manure – A good source for nutrients. Manure is a fine textured mulch and ideally, should be mixed with coarse textured material to prevent compaction.
Grass Clippings – A good source for nitrogen and large amounts of alkalinity. Dry or compost before using. Also mix with coarse textured material to increase porosity and reduce matting.
Replenish organic mulch as it decomposes. As a general rule, this should be done after a hard frost in the fall or after the last frost in spring. If applied too early in the fall, mulch can slow the freezing process by retaining heat in the soil. Likewise, if applied too early in the spring, mulch can inhibit soil warming and delay important root growth.
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